Monday, April 20, 2009

Garments

A feature of all human societies, except perhaps the most primitive, is the wearing of clothing or clothes, especially in public. The primary purpose of clothing is functional, as a protection from the elements. In hot climates the functional need for clothing is minimal, while in very cold climates it is very high. Shelter usually reduces the functional need for clothing. For example, coats, gloves, etc. would normally be removed when entering a warm home. Clothes also have other functional purposes, such as safety during an activity, such as work or sport. But even within these contexts, clothes also perform social and cultural functions. They generally conform with modesty and religious standards of the time and place, and act as social and cultural indicators such as status, wealth and the like. Within these contexts, they also function as a form of adornment and an expression of personal taste! Clothes nowadays, including functional clothes, have a fashion context.

People also decorate their bodies with makeup or cosmetics, scented perfume, and other ornamentation; they also cut, dye, and arrange the hair on their heads, faces, and bodies (see hairstyle), and sometimes also mark their skin (by tattoos, scarifications, and piercings). All these decorations may contribute to the overall effect and message of clothing, but do not constitute clothing.

Articles carried rather than worn (such as purses, canes, and umbrellas) are normally considered fashion accessories rather than clothing, but hats and small dress sweaters can be called clothing or accessories. Jewelry and eyeglasses are usually considered as accessories as well, even though in common speech these particular items are described as being worn rather than carried.

In some societies, clothing may be used to indicate rank and status. In ancient Rome, for example, only senators were permitted to wear garments dyed with Tyrian purple. In Hawaiian society only high-ranking chiefs wore feather cloaks and palaoa or carved whale teeth. Under the Travancore kingdom of Kerala (India), lower caste women had to pay a tax for the right to cover their upper body. In China before the establishment of the republic, only the emperor could wear yellow. There are numerous examples throughout history of elaborate systems of sumptuary laws regulating who could wear what. In societies without such laws, including most modern societies, the high cost of status garments may effectively limit their purchase and display to those who can afford them. Social group pressure may also impact on garment choice.

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